Cebu: A Weekend in the City

In summer of this year, we managed to squeeze in a weekend trip to Cebu. It was my first time there; and I must say, that quick getaway definitely gave me a reason to come back. Presented in a format unusual from my usual, read about the 30 or so hours I spent in the Queen City of the South and its vicinity.

(26 May 2017, 20:53) We land at Mactan Cebu International Airport. Our arrival was later than intended due to a delay in our departure from Manila, but at least we're finally here! We realize that the ride-hailing industry is also bustling in this side of the country, so we book a ride from the airport to our hotel.

(21:47) After taking the route through Mandaue City, our Uber driver drops us off at the Quest Hotel and Conference Center, a 3-star lodging strategically located just across Ayala Center Cebu.

(22:18) It's getting pretty late, and we're starving. Originally, the plan was to eat at the famous Larsian; but since our flight got pushed back by an hour or so, we weren't too sure the place would still be open by the time we get there.

(22:21) After being reassured by a gracious hotel staff that yes, the place is open until late, we ride the jeepney to Larsian. As per usual, I am astounded by how distinct every province's jeepney looks across the Philippines.

(22:30) We arrive at Larsian. I honestly did not know what to expect. Apparently, it's a paluto-slash-ihawan in a food park/ food court setup. We look around and order whatever tickled our fancy. OF COURSE I get isaw (could be pork or chicken intestines) AND chorizo, Cebu's very own take on the longganiza!

(22:43) Food covers up our then-empty table. In front of us: a steaming bowl of clam soup tinola-style; sticks of grilled chicken, isaw, and chorizo drenched in a special marinade, and; a basket of puso or "hanging rice" wrapped and steamed in tiny triangular pockets made of interwoven leaves. With growling stomachs and eager appetites, we dive in.

(23:32) The hunger and craving for a first taste of authentic Cebuano food is now replaced with satisfaction. Given the time of the night and the indulgence that just transpired, a tinge of guilt attempts to blend in, but is pushed away by sheer delight. We sip the remainder of our beverages of choice and wipe our mouths clean, then help ourselves out of Larsian.

(23:35) We decided we could use some dessert and some cardio after meal, so we walk towards the direction of Avalanche, a nitrogen ice cream parlor.

(23:44) Our hearts are crushed as we see the area of Avalanche drenched in darkness. Turns out the establishment is already closed by this time. It's pretty late, after all. We're left with no choice but to return to our hotel, so we ride the jeepney home.

(23:57) We're back in our hotel. Time to get some rest and prepare for a whole day of exploring the city!

(27 May 2017, 07:02) It's a sunny morning in the Queen City of the South! Everyone in the family is getting ready. I eagerly put on the outfit I had planned for that day: a lace top thrown over a white crop top and high-waisted button-fly denim shorts.

(08:18) Breakfast time! We head down to Quest Hotel's in-house restaurant called Pusô, where a buffet spread of both savory and sweet bites await every guest. I don't know about you, but in every buffet, I head straight to the bacon and pile it on my plate. Just kidding! (Or am I?) They have a fairly good selection of food, from the usual continental to Filipino choices.

(09:11) Tummies are stuffed; time for a feast for the eyes! We hail a cab that will take us from the hotel to our first destination for the day.

(10:03) Nearly an hour after, we finally reach the grounds of Temple of Leah. We pay Php50.00 each to enter the premises. Our jaws drop at the beauty of the Greek-inspired architecture, even though the structure is smaller than I expected it to be. Nevertheless I, being a sucker for Greco-Roman architecture (and mythology!), had heart-eyes all over. Besides the stunning building style, the Temple also boasts a panoramic view of Cebu. (See my previous post for more photos of this attraction!)

(10:12) Like most people-- the place is already quite packed at this time of the day-- I strike several poses by some columns and take some photos. Silly me left my handy Fujifilm X-T10 in Manila; but thank goodness my phone can snap some pretty decent pictures! 

(10:34) We read up on the inscriptions and discover the story behind the magnificent edifice. Temple of Leah is the Cebuano answer to India's Taj Mahal (just as the Ilonggos have The Ruins). It was constructed by magnate Teodorico Adarna in honor of his deceased wife, Leah V. Albino- Adarna.

(11:58) It feels like we've soaked up enough of the view from the top, and pretty much explored every corner of the place possible. Much of the property is still under construction, and expansion, we assume. The rooms are off-limits, but visitors can catch through the windows glimpses of the various trinkets then collected by the Leah. It's now time to leave and head somewhere else-- some place to eat at, as prompted by our appetites.

(11:06) We hop on a cab that will zip us through the zig-zags of hilly Busay and take us back to the heart of Cebu City, where the delicious promise of food awaits us.

(11:43) THE MOMENT I'VE BEEN WAITING FOR-- an encounter with lechon at none other than its birthplace! Before this trip, I was definitely game to eat lechon all-day, everyday while in Cebu. Given the time constraint, we had to come up with a shortlist of  "brands" we wanted to try. First up? Rico's Lechon. We decided to check out their newest and biggest to date branch in Axis Entertainment Avenue at Vibo Place along Escario Street. The restaurant is dressed up in popping colors and prints, exuding a modern home-y feel. For our no-holds-barred taste test, we get 1/4 kilo of the original Rico's lechon and another 1/4 of the spicy variant. We also order tinolang tanigue to warm up our tummies, and a glass of their special cucumansi (cucumber-calamansi) quencher to wash everything down.

(11:56) Our table begins to fill up with our orders. As soon as we dig into the lechon, we are met with silence as fork hits the pork skin. One bite, two bites-- neither of the original nor the spicy lechon had crunchy skin. We are disappointed, to say the least. We try to raise our concern with the staff, but the sheer volume of customers drown out our sentiment. That aside, Rico's original lechon is flavorful, and its juiciness puts it one-up over the spicy counterpart which barely has a kick and instead is just rather dry. Their cucumber-calamansi refresher makes for a good palate cleanser though, and its zest is enough to give you a false sense of comfort that it melts all the grease in the bloodstream haha!

(12:47) We settle the bill and exit the establishment. Next on our itinerary is the Taoist temple, so we book an Uber ride and wait by the curbside. It doesn't take too long for the assigned driver to pick us up.

(13:04) It's a rather quick ride to the Cebu Taoist Temple. It is open to the public, practitioners of the faith and simply-curious tourists alike. Turns out there is no other way but to go up, as the temple rests at the hilltop. All I could think of while making the climb is, "Hey, at least I'm burning all that lechon!". The colors-- red, green, gold, and more-- and symbols like dragons all combine to create a robust yet serene aesthetic. It is definitely not hard to appreciate what the place has to offer; equally, it is easy to understand how the temple has turned into a tourist destination of its own.

(13:17) The sun is glaring at us, leaving us feeling hot and sticky with every step as we go further up. We rediscover Cebu City from a different vantage point. Despite the blazing heat, the solitude of the place and the gentle breeze is calming.

(13:38) We make our way down and return to the foot of the temple grounds. Just like the same way we got to the temple, we book an Uber ride to get to our next destination.

(14:07) The tell-tale silhouette of SM Seaside City Cebu begins to come into view. As we get closer, we make out the details of its modern architecture better. In many ways, the mall is like an echo of SM Mall of Asia in Manila.

(14:16) Our Uber ride drops us off at the driveway. We enter the premises and our senses slowly take everything in. On the exterior, SM Seaside is like MOA. But on the inside, it reminds me of SM Megamall and its newer wing. Imagine that, intertwined with the distinct layout of SM City malls.

(14:19) Not far off where we entered, we spot 10 Dove Street. We saw a different branch earlier that same day in Vibo Place; we surveyed their mouthwatering pies and cakes, but could not stay to eat because we had to go ahead. Luckily, they have a branch in SM too! I didn't realize the restaurant was a big name in Cebu until then. Since it seemed like it was meant to be, we enter the store and got a table. Turns out, they are more than just a bakery; they also serve savory dishes. But since we already had our fill of lechon for lunch, we settle for dessert.

(14:27) It does not take long for our orders to arrive. We share over the lava cake a la mode and a slice of pistachio cake.

(14:34) Their lava cake, nestled in a well-sized bowl was moist all over. Oozing from the center when pierced is melted chocolate which bears just the right amount of sweetness. It works just perfectly with the vanilla ice cream drizzled with chocolate syrup on top. 10 Dove Street's pistachio cake is just as delightful, albeit in a different manner. The chiffon is light and fluffy, and its delicate flavor balances the heaviness of the lava cake. I'm not exactly a fan of pistachio-flavored sweets-- I'd much rather eat pistachio from its shell, thank you-- but I am pretty impressed with their pistachio green cake.

(14:52) Sweet tooth satisfied, we leave 10 Dove Street but not without snapping a photo of their dainty window display. We proceed to explore the rest of the mall and see a good mix of local and international brands spread all over. A "sale" sign catches my mom and I's eyes. Suddenly, we find ourselves sifting rows and rows of clothes.

(15:35) After some meticulous fitting and deliberation, we leave the store with shopping bags in hand. I ended up getting a shift dress and an off-shoulder bodysuit, both versatile pieces that I can wear during dress-down Fridays at work and weekends.

(16:06) We zip by the remaining floors as we make our way to the top level. As we exit through the glass doors and step foot outdoors, I am blown away by the view. Besides boasting a marvelous view, the rooftop of SM Seaside City also has some al fresco dining spots, an interactive play area for children, and lush green planes. I am reminded of Singapore's Vivo City, which also has an outdoor playground (and a man-made pond!). If not for the sun's unsolicited rage, I would love to sit on the (probably artificial, was not able to validate) grass and embrace the breeze that blows from the sea.

(16:32) It is now time to leave, lest we risk being magnetized by more in-store markdowns haha! This time, we join the taxi queue instead of booking another ride via Grab or Uber.

(16:45) The cab takes us to Basilica del Santo Niño, our next destination. The church is beautiful in its simplicity, with its washed-out white façade detailed with a touch of baroque style.

(16: 53) Like most visitors, we join the queue to pay our respects to Santo Niño. If you are wearing shorts for bottoms and/or a sleeveless top, you will be lent a shawl for cover. The line is long, but it moves smoothly. At this point, I am truly astounded by the faith of the Filipino people.

(17:06) After honoring the Santo Niño, we head back outside and light some candles in the courtyard.

(17:10) Apparently, people are not exaggerating when they say that Magellan's Cross is just beside the basilica. Like many, I am surprised with the size of the cross. I bet most people expect the cross to be towering in size; but really, it is just a few feet tall. The photographs in the history books painted a misleading picture in my head haha!

(17:12) A string of old female devotees surround the historic cross. We purchase a bundle of candles from one of them. Afterwards, the woman opens her mouth and her bellowing voice joins the chants of her peers as they pray for the welfare of us tourists. The candles are then lit and left at the foot of the cross until the wicks are no more, and the wax just a series of trails.

(17:21) Of course, no Filipino trip will be complete without pasalubong (coming-home gifts such as souvenir items or native delicacies). From the plaza, we take the cab to Ayala Center Cebu which happens to be just a stone's throw from our hotel. We figured the most convenient way to purchase pasalubong would be at the Metro Department Store and Supermarket.

(17:34) True enough, Metro has an entire grocery aisle devoted to Cebuano snacks. Naturally, we fill our shopping baskets with a variety of otap (puff pastry) and dried mangoes. I also snuck in some of my personal favorite, mango balls.

(18:03) We head to the cashier and check out our purchases. We head back up to our hotel room to drop off our bags and freshen up. It's our last night in Cebu and frankly, we still have to pack up, but we're not letting the time go to waste.

(19:47) We're having dinner at the iconic Marco Polo Plaza Cebu's BLU Bar & Grill. True to its nature as a fine dining destination, their dishes are made with carefully-curated components and presented like art.

(20:51) As we were finishing up our meals, they serve us a complimentary drink-- BLU's in-house iced tea. Just like our entrees, they did not hold back on the presentation of the specialty beverage. Truly, the dining experience was a feast for the eyes and the tummy.

(21:22) Dinnertime is coming to a close. We fold our napkins, say our thanks, and lift ourselves off our seats.We take the same scenic lift we rode to get to the top floor, and marvel at the night lights. Little did we know, a better view awaits us in our next destination.

(21:43) Northbound, we head further up the hills to the Tops Lookout. There, the cool night breeze welcomed us. The chill is perfect, not biting. And the view? Even more so. I am not just talking about the dots of the buildings and street lights in the horizon, but also the stars above. One thing about me is that I have an affinity for the night sky. In Manila, where I live, the stars are often hidden behind all the smog. That is why I am delighted with every chance to see the stars generously spread out in the canvas of midnight. I think to myself: I should probably learn how to spot constellations, and also learn how to capture photographs of starry skies with long exposure.

(21:57) We spot lightning zipping from a distance. Rain will be approaching soon. Truth be told, I could stay in that spot for hours-- simply enjoying the air and the scenery-- but it's time to go.

(22:31) Back in our hotel, it's time to pack. Our return flight to Manila is scheduled tomorrow.

(28 May 2017, 07:04) Another day in Cebu City-- albeit our last for this trip. We still have a few things lined up for our remaining hours in the city, so we prepare in the least leisurely pace we could in order to avoid wasting any time.

(09:43) We return to Basilica Minore del Santo Niño de Cebu to hear Sunday mass. Although it is still a quarter-hour before the scheduled mass, the place was already filled. The mass is to be held in the outdoor altar, so we join the crowd under the shade. A few people endured the heat with their umbrellas by staying on the second-level bleachers.

(09:56) We knew there would be a 10 AM mass; we were not expecting, however, that the mass would be presided in Cebuano. I wish we had some knowledge of the local dialect; but alas, we did not.

(11:02) Even though we could not understand the language, we stayed for the sacrament. At the end of the mass, there is sprinkling of holy water. Whether empty-handed or clutching a religious article of choice, people are lining up in the center of the courtyard, waiting to be blessed.

(11:09) The roads around the church are closed to vehicles. We walk to the next block and ride a cab to get to our lunch destination. Any guesses what we're going for?

(11:30) We arrive at House of Lechon in Kamputhaw. At first glance, I immediately dig the "Filipino with a vibrant, modern twist" vibe. It is evident right from the attire of the wait staff, to the interiors. Our attempt for a balanced family is an order of their Carcar Special, and their sabaw ng mais og kinhason (corn soup with clams), and the staple rice.

(11:42) Our food arrives rather quickly. Their lechon is served in a delightful wooden plate in the shape of a pig's head. More notably, it comes with a special sauce. With no hesitation whatsoever, we dig in. The verdict? I like House of Lechon better than the first one we tried, Rico's. First of all, the skin is crispy. Furthermore, the meat is tender and juicy. I also love the character that the sauce gives-- but mind you, the lechon can also stand on its own.

(12:34) After a delightful experience in the House of Lechon, we go back to our hotel to pick up our things, book a ride, then head to the airport in preparation for our departure to Manila.

(14:56) For reasons quite unexpected with local airline carriers, our flight is delayed. Had we know earlier, we would have taken our sweet time haha! Good thing there were decent food and beverage choices in the airport (you can buy lechon too, from Zubuchon!). I buy sugarcane juice to quench my thirst and pair it with some choco butternut munchkins from Dunkin Donuts. Worst part is knowing that your flight is delayed, but not knowing when it will arrive until a few hours after. I doze off a little while waiting.

(16:12) The aircraft finally arrives. We go through the whole boarding process and bid the Queen City of the South adieu. I definitely had a lovely first time in Cebu, and boy do I look forward to coming back (and exploring other parts of the province too).